Why does my DLR damper leak oil too quickly? The lock-out isn’t firm.

Let’s say the surface of your damper rod is in perfectly smooth condition. If it isn’t, it should be fixed. Check its performance then. Cannondale was always making dampers with plastic caps on both ends of the oil cartridge. Through caps goes a damper rod. Therefore those caps contain a u-cup oil seal, which was originally made of NBR rubber material. This soft rubber (black colour) paired with plastic cap wasn’t as reliable as expected, especially at high shock speeds (fast impact). Eventually, the NBR material got replaced by polyurethane (PU) compound (blue colour). With slightly changed dimensions, those u-cups showed better reliability and longer service interval, for they were firmer. The same seals are found nowadays in the service kit KF236. But Cannondale took a step further in enhancing the reliability of the damper…

The latest version of DLR damper
End caps got enhanced by material change, from plastic to metal. A new guide band for the rod with a tighter fit was introduced in the bore. Plastic caps didn’t need a guide band, for they were made of plastic (POM) and it was, let’s say, a part of the cap body. In metal caps there are also new PU u-cups. Those new metal caps don’t leak! They are finally made up to the quality standard. The rod movement is stabilized; load to the seals is reduced. However, it’s not possible to buy those caps separately. If you want them, you have to buy a complete new DLR damper (KF264). What to do then if you’re stuck with the old and fully functional damper? Try with new PU seals from the kit KF236. Or ask me to sell you my own seals which I have made specifically for plastic caps to make them as reliable as they should be.

Why does a DLR damper lose air quickly?

There could be at least 5 reasons I can think of in a heartbeat. None is specifically related to DLR, problems can affect any damper model. A proper inspection can identify the root cause in your case of air leakage. The Headshok air cylinder should not lose pressure over a year /season. However, pressure fluctuation and slight changes are possible if you beat the fork very hard on a demanding trail, but this very much depends on the quality of recent service.

I can provide you with an air piston gaskets (quad ring) made of Viton® rubber (FKM). My quad ring has better performance than original (NBR) in following characteristics:
– compression set
– stiction
– elasticity (sealing performance)
– durability
– geometry

Will Cannondale produce Fatty DLR80, since there is DL50 still in production?

I don’t know. Marketing is a bitch. Just look at Lefty LightPipe and you’ll know what I mean. Maybe if a community of XC enthusiasts raises the awareness of the necessity for a light and reliable fork of excellent performance, maybe then someone will think about this in Cannondale and cut off the fingers of those who helped labelling Fatty “unreliable”.

What tools should I buy to make a telescope service by myself at home?

I’m not telling you this.
Not until you train yourself to do it PROPERLY.
Technique is most important! Then the tools.
Sorry for not answering this, I just care more about your fork than about your experiments. Join me in my workshop for a telescope service of your fork, and then you will receive a training, and then we will see if you dare to do it at home. Technically talented individuals can certainly do it with proper tools, after proper training.

Why do you have your own competition linked on “useful links” page?

I don’t have a competition. I’m confident in excellence of my work. In fact, I’d like headshok riders to use other (more convenient?) service shops as well, just to keep riding this magnificent fork.

How to replace a Headshok fork with a standard fork

There is no problem in changing the fork to conventional fork. You just have to buy an appropriate head tube adapter, because Headshok frames have wide head tube. I’ve seen some choices on eBay, I got myself one for testing purposes. The easiest and simplest version of adapter is the one which uses original head tube cups and headset bearings of the Headshok. You just slide two machined rings (bottom and top) over the steerer of your new fork and mount it to existing headset bearings. But I have one question for you. Why would you get rid of your Headshok? The only plausible excuse is the travel insufficiency -in Fatty case. Or the inconvenience of front wheel hassle (removal / availability) -in Lefty case.